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Showing posts with label Guatemala. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Guatemala. Show all posts
Tuesday, April 1, 2014
Tuesday, August 20, 2013
Monday, August 19, 2013
Sailing on Las Sirenas to the Cays of Belize (27.07.2013 - 05.08.2013)
After Melanie left for Switzerland I had two more days in Antigua before heading back north to Rio Dulce. After another night at Hotel Kangaroo I could board the sailing boat which would be my home for the next week. Las Sirenas is an old 46 feet (14m) long Polynesian catamaran, designed by James Wharram. My cabin or should I say coffin was in the stern of the starboard hull. It was quite small but cozy and I didn't plan on staying below deck besides the nights. All the food and drinking water was included, beers and soda where on the honesty system. But I was prepared and had two bottles of rum with me ^^
Everyone would get a plastic bottle of fresh water a day to shower/rinse. This wasn't a super luxurious cruise, but I didn't mind.
As companions for this trip I had a israeli couple (hello Mor & Itai ^^), a girl from belgium, a american/south african Witness of Jehovah couple (aeh...) and the owner with his wife and two boys. The crew consisted of the captain, a deckhand and a cook.
After lifting the anchor we sailed out into El Golfete where we stayed for the first night. Early the next morning we would cross the canyons and stop at Livingston to get our passports stamped. As it was quite windy the captain decided not to cross over to the cays the same day. So we anchored protected behind the peninsula in the bay of Amatique. The next day I woke up as we were already out in the open sea on our way to the Cays of Belize. Soon after a school of dolphins showed up and escorted us for the next 20 minutes. We arrived before midday but the carribean work ethic hindered us to get our passport stamped, the official wasn't around. So we set sail for the tiny island of Tom Owens Caye where we could go snorkelling and diving. As it was the last dive of the day it wasn't really deep and spectacular dive.
So we tried our luck again the next morning. This time they would allow me to help them spearfish the invasive Lionfish. The divemaster (as it was a girl is it called a divemistress?!) and I got about ten each when a nurseshark showed up and expressed interest in our spears and the bag with our catch. But after sniffing on the spearheads he departed into the deep blue again.
After the dive our captain took us back to the first island to get our immigration done and then we left for another reef. They called the place we anchored the White Reef, a sandy area surrounded by a circular reef. As it was quite shallow (0.5 - 2m) it was a great place to go snorkelling! We would stay there for two nights and do nothing besides swimming in the open sea, spearfishing, snorkelling or go out with one of the kayaks/surfboards.
I tried my luck on spearfishing there and got a nice catch, around 40cm long! The spears we would use are called a hawaiian sling. Its a spear with a rubber band at the back which you would stretch and then let go. You can't shoot really far, so you have to get quite close!
While snorkelling I saw sting rays, eagle rays, barracudas and we had a nurse shark visiting our boat. The fish innards from our catches probably helped ;)
Our captain would go out to spearfish everyday, so we had fresh fish all the time! And by the end of the trip he had caught enough lobsters for all of us. So we had a awesome lobster meal!
The time passed way to quickly and we were already on our way back. After a quick stop at Livingston for the paperwork we sailed up the canyon and ended up anchoring close to Rio Dulce.
The next day we got dropped of and I called Gary to pick me up again so I could spend two more nights in the swamp ;)
Everyone would get a plastic bottle of fresh water a day to shower/rinse. This wasn't a super luxurious cruise, but I didn't mind.
As companions for this trip I had a israeli couple (hello Mor & Itai ^^), a girl from belgium, a american/south african Witness of Jehovah couple (aeh...) and the owner with his wife and two boys. The crew consisted of the captain, a deckhand and a cook.
After lifting the anchor we sailed out into El Golfete where we stayed for the first night. Early the next morning we would cross the canyons and stop at Livingston to get our passports stamped. As it was quite windy the captain decided not to cross over to the cays the same day. So we anchored protected behind the peninsula in the bay of Amatique. The next day I woke up as we were already out in the open sea on our way to the Cays of Belize. Soon after a school of dolphins showed up and escorted us for the next 20 minutes. We arrived before midday but the carribean work ethic hindered us to get our passport stamped, the official wasn't around. So we set sail for the tiny island of Tom Owens Caye where we could go snorkelling and diving. As it was the last dive of the day it wasn't really deep and spectacular dive.
So we tried our luck again the next morning. This time they would allow me to help them spearfish the invasive Lionfish. The divemaster (as it was a girl is it called a divemistress?!) and I got about ten each when a nurseshark showed up and expressed interest in our spears and the bag with our catch. But after sniffing on the spearheads he departed into the deep blue again.
After the dive our captain took us back to the first island to get our immigration done and then we left for another reef. They called the place we anchored the White Reef, a sandy area surrounded by a circular reef. As it was quite shallow (0.5 - 2m) it was a great place to go snorkelling! We would stay there for two nights and do nothing besides swimming in the open sea, spearfishing, snorkelling or go out with one of the kayaks/surfboards.
I tried my luck on spearfishing there and got a nice catch, around 40cm long! The spears we would use are called a hawaiian sling. Its a spear with a rubber band at the back which you would stretch and then let go. You can't shoot really far, so you have to get quite close!
While snorkelling I saw sting rays, eagle rays, barracudas and we had a nurse shark visiting our boat. The fish innards from our catches probably helped ;)
Our captain would go out to spearfish everyday, so we had fresh fish all the time! And by the end of the trip he had caught enough lobsters for all of us. So we had a awesome lobster meal!
The time passed way to quickly and we were already on our way back. After a quick stop at Livingston for the paperwork we sailed up the canyon and ended up anchoring close to Rio Dulce.
The next day we got dropped of and I called Gary to pick me up again so I could spend two more nights in the swamp ;)
Hotel Kangaroo, Rio Dulce
http://www.hotelkangaroo.com/
I ended up staying three times in this lovely place. Once with Melanie and before and after my sailing trip.
Gary, the australian owner, built himself a nice jungle/swamp retreat. He rents out a couple of cabins and private rooms and has a dorm under the thatched roof. As you are literally in the middle of the swamp don't expect good internet connection and also the power may go out (which just makes it more cozy). His mexican wife/girlfriend runs a restaurant with typical dishes, so you wont go hungry. There are kayaks for rent to explore the surroundings, but we never found time for it. Too much to do with relaxing and chilling on the tub ;)
We think we paid around 20 USD/CHF for the private room and 8 USD/CHF for the dorm, but its a while ago so use with precaution.
I ended up staying three times in this lovely place. Once with Melanie and before and after my sailing trip.
Gary, the australian owner, built himself a nice jungle/swamp retreat. He rents out a couple of cabins and private rooms and has a dorm under the thatched roof. As you are literally in the middle of the swamp don't expect good internet connection and also the power may go out (which just makes it more cozy). His mexican wife/girlfriend runs a restaurant with typical dishes, so you wont go hungry. There are kayaks for rent to explore the surroundings, but we never found time for it. Too much to do with relaxing and chilling on the tub ;)
We think we paid around 20 USD/CHF for the private room and 8 USD/CHF for the dorm, but its a while ago so use with precaution.
Tip: Bring our own booze, Gary wont mind!
Rio Dulce and Livingston (20.07.2013 - 23.07.2013)
Arriving in Rio Dulce we were picked up by Gary, the owner of Hotel Kangaroo. 5 to 10 minutes boat ride later we arrived in a side arm/swamp of the river were the hotel lies. We were just settled in when the three canadians showed up as well ;)
So the next day the five of us and another french canadian couple (seems to be holiday season there) headed to Finca Paraiso. For a small fee you can go swimming in the cold river into which a waterfall fed by hot springs plunges. You could dive behind the waterfall which felt like being in a steam bath. Most of us (hint, hint ^^) jumped the waterfall, but Nic really couldn't get enough of it.
After a while the river was getting crowded by guatemalans so we decided to head on to Boqueron. There we had to pay some locals so they would take us up the narrow and high canyon by boat. The steep cliffs were quite a sight. After a while they dropped us off and we continued on foot as far as possible. Jonathan, Nic and I then tried to swim upriver against the current. It took us forever for just a short stretch and we were (at least I was) quite exhausted afterwards ;)
The next day we headed downriver to Livingston on the caribbean coast. First we took a peek at the fort close to Rio Dulce. It was once built to hinder any Pirates of sailing any further up river and harass local settlements.
On the way downriver we would pass through some nice canyons, some in form of steep cliffs and other totally overgrown with vegetation.
Livingston itself turned out to be a typical caribbean town. Rundown wooden shacks with rusty corrugated roofs. The inhabitants of this town are a mix of freed black slaves, pirates and other early white settlers. We tried the typical (read touristy) local garifuna dish of tapado. A soup of coconut milk, whole crab and whole deep fried fish. It was not that bad, but in my opinion the cook is just lazy and throws everything unpeeled in a pot ;)
So the next day the five of us and another french canadian couple (seems to be holiday season there) headed to Finca Paraiso. For a small fee you can go swimming in the cold river into which a waterfall fed by hot springs plunges. You could dive behind the waterfall which felt like being in a steam bath. Most of us (hint, hint ^^) jumped the waterfall, but Nic really couldn't get enough of it.
After a while the river was getting crowded by guatemalans so we decided to head on to Boqueron. There we had to pay some locals so they would take us up the narrow and high canyon by boat. The steep cliffs were quite a sight. After a while they dropped us off and we continued on foot as far as possible. Jonathan, Nic and I then tried to swim upriver against the current. It took us forever for just a short stretch and we were (at least I was) quite exhausted afterwards ;)
The next day we headed downriver to Livingston on the caribbean coast. First we took a peek at the fort close to Rio Dulce. It was once built to hinder any Pirates of sailing any further up river and harass local settlements.
On the way downriver we would pass through some nice canyons, some in form of steep cliffs and other totally overgrown with vegetation.
Livingston itself turned out to be a typical caribbean town. Rundown wooden shacks with rusty corrugated roofs. The inhabitants of this town are a mix of freed black slaves, pirates and other early white settlers. We tried the typical (read touristy) local garifuna dish of tapado. A soup of coconut milk, whole crab and whole deep fried fish. It was not that bad, but in my opinion the cook is just lazy and throws everything unpeeled in a pot ;)
Finca Ixobel (17.07.2013 - 19.07.2013)
Looking for a place to split the trip down south to Rio Dulce we stumbled upon Finca Ixobel. Next to the town of Poptun lies this finca which sports some dorms, private rooms and a camp ground with tree houses! A big group of tourist-guide-students from Guatemala City had most of them reserved, we were lucky to get the last of the standard tree houses. The standard version is basically a wooden box on stilts with a bed, mosquito net and a candle, there is no electricity. The deluxe version has power and even a private bath downstairs.
In the evening they opened the bar next to the swimming pond. We were quite tired and soon went back to our cabin to go to sleep. But on the way to the bathroom we changed our mind. Thats how we ended up in the bar with our tooth brushes ^^
The evening turned out to be quite fun! The group of french canadians staying in the dorm were already starting to dance with the guatemalan girls. Some of these girls were well drunk and overweight, so the attempts on the dancing pole were quite entertaining.
The next day we did a horseback trip around the huge farm. Melanies first time on a horse ;)
We paid around 12 USD/CHF for our rustic suite.
In the evening they opened the bar next to the swimming pond. We were quite tired and soon went back to our cabin to go to sleep. But on the way to the bathroom we changed our mind. Thats how we ended up in the bar with our tooth brushes ^^
The evening turned out to be quite fun! The group of french canadians staying in the dorm were already starting to dance with the guatemalan girls. Some of these girls were well drunk and overweight, so the attempts on the dancing pole were quite entertaining.
The next day we did a horseback trip around the huge farm. Melanies first time on a horse ;)
We paid around 12 USD/CHF for our rustic suite.
Sunday, July 21, 2013
Flores and Tikal (13.07.2013 - 16.07.2013)
The lovely old town of Flores lies on a island in the Lago Peten Itza. We wanted to stay at Los Amigos but there was no place left so we had to settle with a shitty place for the first night and could switch the day after. Which was super decision!
After a day off to relax from the uncomfortable mini-bus ride we did a Tikal-Sunrise-Tour. Which meant we had to get up at 3 in the morning! On the way to the ruins we had the luck to spot a jaguar crossing the street. Arriving at the ruins we climbed temple IV (four) to wait for the sunset. We were all sitting there and listening to the jungle waking up. We could hear howler monkeys and dozens of birds chattering away. We waited and waited and the night turned to day but sadly there was no sunrise to observe as it was too cloudy. But nevertheless we enjoyed the view, which George Lucas used for the landing of the millenium falcon on Yavin 4 in Star Wars IV.
We walked around in this huge area with dozens of temples to visit. Some temples you can't climb anymore because of a deadly accident, but the guards enforcing this only start working at 8 in the morning. So our guide asked us if we wanted to climb the pyramid and we didn't hesitated ^^
Around the many temples the jungle thrives with wildlife, we saw spider monkeys, toucans, tarantulas, foxes, some kind of wild turkey and some silly long nosed mammals.
Tuesday, July 16, 2013
Holistico Hostel, Antigua
After our first night in the disappointing Black Cat Hostel we switched to this relaxed place. The staff was friendly, there is a roof top terrace, nice courtyard full of plants and you get free water, coffee and tea.
We paid 12 USD/CHF for our private room with shower.
PS: First time there was a reliable internet connection in guatemala, hooray! ;)
Antigua and Semuc Champey (09.07.2013 - 12.07.2013)
We reached Antigua in one of the many tourist shuttle busses which dropped us off in the city center. After having found a place to stay (which we changed for the second night) we went to wander around this old town with its many half demolished buildings/churches. We saw a poster about O.X. an adventure tour operator and headed there inquire about one of the many volcano tours. Sadly the next overnight tour would only depart 3 days later. So we decided to do the downhill bike tour the next day. Which was awesome! They took the two of us and a young american couple (kids basically ^^) up the mountain on a pick up truck. From there we had to ride maybe half an hour more or less uphill through villages and corn fields. The downhill part that started there was exciting and you could get quite some speed. Just beware of the farmers coming uphill :) After arriving in a little town the guide told us we could grab a little local shuttle bus to get up hill again, for not even a doller each. The americans had enough but the two of us didn't ^^
The next day we headed up north to Coban, where we had dinner at one of the many food stalls which are parked around the main plaza in the evening. All the stalls sell/server the same menu, not so entrepreneurial...
The day after we visited Semuc Champey. These lime stone kind of waterfalls and pools are of a awesome colour and quite some fun to splash around! We did the steep climb up the viewpoint first, the view was definitely worth the exhaustion. Swimming in the pools afterward was even more refreshing that way.
The next day we headed up north to Coban, where we had dinner at one of the many food stalls which are parked around the main plaza in the evening. All the stalls sell/server the same menu, not so entrepreneurial...
The day after we visited Semuc Champey. These lime stone kind of waterfalls and pools are of a awesome colour and quite some fun to splash around! We did the steep climb up the viewpoint first, the view was definitely worth the exhaustion. Swimming in the pools afterward was even more refreshing that way.
Around Lago Atilan (06.07.2013 - 08.07.2013)
In Xela we decided to go to San Pedro la Laguna an not directly to Panajachel. So we took again a Chicken Bus through the mountains down super steep and narrow roads. Always a good feeling if the bus has to back up to get around a corner with just a narrow border before the deep plunge...
San Pedro is a little laid back town on the Lago Atilan. We stayed at Mr. Mullets just around the corner of the docks, a really nice place. The lake is surrounded by (inactive) volcanoes, quite a sight! We went kayaking and swimming and enjoyed the great view. The first evening we stayed in San Pedro was some kind of local festival going on. We joined the few guatemalans which where dancing in front of the stage. Around three-quarter of the spectators where only standing around, supposedly their church doesn't allow them to dance...
To go to Pana we took one of the many ferries on the lake. Pana itself was a little busier and more touristic than San Pedro, which we preferred more.
San Pedro is a little laid back town on the Lago Atilan. We stayed at Mr. Mullets just around the corner of the docks, a really nice place. The lake is surrounded by (inactive) volcanoes, quite a sight! We went kayaking and swimming and enjoyed the great view. The first evening we stayed in San Pedro was some kind of local festival going on. We joined the few guatemalans which where dancing in front of the stage. Around three-quarter of the spectators where only standing around, supposedly their church doesn't allow them to dance...
To go to Pana we took one of the many ferries on the lake. Pana itself was a little busier and more touristic than San Pedro, which we preferred more.
Black Cat Hostel, Quetzaltenango/Xela
http://blackcathostels.net/eng/xela/index.html
We found this place only by accident but loved it on first sight. The friendly staff will serve you at the bar/restaurant and there is a lovely courtyard.
We paid around 30USD/CHF for our private room with shower and hot water! ;)
PS: Avoid the Black Cat Hostel in Antigua! Smelly tiny rooms, dirty toilets and showers. Doesn't really live up to its sibling in Xela...
We found this place only by accident but loved it on first sight. The friendly staff will serve you at the bar/restaurant and there is a lovely courtyard.
We paid around 30USD/CHF for our private room with shower and hot water! ;)
PS: Avoid the Black Cat Hostel in Antigua! Smelly tiny rooms, dirty toilets and showers. Doesn't really live up to its sibling in Xela...
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